Ground Control to Major Linas

In Stockholm Part One

Cab rides and airport terminals. This time, my bags do not follow me like faithful dogs. I arrive in Stockholm with only the contents of my carry-on bag and what i am wearing. A bedraggled pair of pinstripe dress pants over lazy sandals...no underwear, and a t-shirt. I am carrying a tablet and a phone with no chargers for either (those i checked for some reason). I have a pair of sweat pants, a back-up t-shirt, and a pair of socks—no shoes.

I file a report on my missing luggage and give my address in the states as well as my address in Vilnius. It seems more like home now anyway.

Welcome to Stockholm, it's going to be a bumpy ride. 
I am stopped on the way out by a buxom blonde customs agent. Thank you Sweden.

I seem suspicious since i have no luggage. After i explain that my luggage has been delayed she asks me what i am doing in Stockholm. I begin to tell my entire story of the GROW program, Lithuania, and this trip. She stops me. "Enjoy your stay in Stockholm". I guess even in Sweden I'm still white.

Adopted in the airport + the Arlanda Express

There is an express train to take you from the airport into the city. I need to get on tis. There are automated kiosks selling tickets, but they won't take my credit cards. My cards only have a magnetic strip and these machines only read cards with chips.

I look lost standing in front of the machine with my useless card.

A friendly young woman comes up to me. "You know there is a discount ticket for two." "We could split the price and i can give you cash for my half". "My card won't work" i respond dumbly. "Oh well i'll just put it on mine". She runs her card. "I don't have any krona, my money is in dollars or plastic". "That's OK, consider it a welcome to Stockholm gift".

Things are looking up.

The Metro

My adoptive guide takes me onto the train. Sits with me the whole time telling me her life story, and how she once sat on this train with the guitar player of Bad Religion, go figure.

It was definitely not this empty
When we arrive in the city my new friend makes sure i find the right metro line, shows me how to buy a 24 hour pass, gives me a big hug, and is on her way. She paid for my train ride from the airport, kept me company in a strange new place, made sure i knew where i was going and how to get there, andi don't even remember her name.

Oh well. Now i'm in a subway station, and this is familiar. The red and green lines crossing on the subway maps, the shiny ceramic tiles of the floor, and the soft white lights warning you away from certain death at the hands of the third rail. It's like being a teenager back in D.C. again. I pu tin my headphones, press play, and away we go. To Bonnier corporate offices, Bert Menninga, and adventure?

Finding my hotel proves to be slightly more confusing than i thought, but only because i exit the subway facing the away from it and blissfully walk three blocks on the wrong direction bobbing my head like an idiot and just taking in Sweden through the nostrils.

Bert Menninga

My contact here is Bert. He writes for the corporate newsletter and runs something vaguely important sounding. He lived in Chicago for a while. His parents even lived in Boulder briefly, and we connect over the shared disdain for Boulder residents. He moved to Sweden for love and never regretted it. gotta respect that.

Bonnier AB offices + Fika break

The offices are a monument to scandinavian design, and a slightly moldering presence of wealth.

a discussion of politics
weird intern

Kate Goodin
Meet Kate Goodin 

Kate is from New York. She is doing her GROW rotation here in Stockholm. She is a quite young lady, very focused on her job and on making a good impression...on everyone. She offers to show me around the city tonight after work. She doesn't know what she is getting into.

A Google map of places to see in SoFo (Southern Folkungatan, or some such hipster rubbish)

On our walk around the office one of the girls there offers to show me a few places to check out. "Why don't we use google maps" I suggest, since i've got a tablet and this may the only time i get to use it without a charger to keep it going.

In hindsight, this is where things started to get weird.

She marks several places of interest in the area and i head out to get something to eat and wait for Kate to get off work.

Bar Nada

We ander the area known as SoFo and stop at each of the places marked on the map as we pass them. Some are closed, some are just record stores...but one draws us in. Bar Nada. It is a small cafe-like space in a block of brick buildings.   The front door stands wide open and a few small tables dot the sidewalk in front.

We stroll in the front door with the intention of having "just one beer", a beer i was told we would not have by Maria in Warsaw, but have one we would. Kate and I are greeting immediately upon entry, by an exuberant young man behind the counter. We are invited to a beer, and we agree.

To be continued...




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